Lisbon keeps moving up my personal list every time I go back. Right now it sits at 9.0 on the Rory Trotter Test. The city does not shout for attention. It just sits there under that soft light, full of hills and yellow trams, and somehow feels more alive than places that try much harder.

The light is the first thing that gets you. It hits the tiled walls and turns ordinary streets gold in the late afternoon. You walk up one of those steep hills, catch your breath at the top, and the river is just there below you. No big performance. It simply works.

City Experience 9/10
The mix of old neighbourhoods and the wide waterfront never feels forced. You can lose half a day just wandering between viewpoints and still not feel like you wasted time. The hills slow you down in a good way.

Food 9/10
Simple grilled fish, fresh bread, and those little custard tarts that disappear faster than you expect. Markets are busy but not overwhelming. I ate well without chasing any famous spots. A plate of seafood and a cold drink with the river in view is hard to improve on.

Value 8/10
Still reasonable compared to other European capitals. Stay a bit away from the main squares and the prices drop while the views stay good. Public transport is cheap and covers the hills better than your legs sometimes do.

Beaches 7.5/10
Not right in the centre, but an easy ride takes you to wide Atlantic stretches. The water is cooler than the Mediterranean, yet the space and the wind make up for it. Good for a half-day escape when the city feels too vertical.

Walkability 7/10
The hills are real. Your calves will notice. Once you accept that and use the trams for the steepest bits, it becomes part of the rhythm rather than a problem. Flat stretches along the water help balance it out.

Family Friendly 8/10
Open squares, tram rides that feel like an adventure, and enough space to sit and watch the day. The climbs can tire smaller legs, so plan some downhill routes and breaks with ice cream.

Tourist Traps 6/10
Certain viewpoints and the most photographed tram lines get crowded fast. Walk one street over and the same city feels quieter. You learn the pattern after the first day.

Rory’s Verdict
GO. Lisbon is worth the trip because it never feels like it is performing for you. The light, the hills, the river, they just exist and you fit yourself around them. I leave every time already thinking about the next visit.

Rory’s Tips
Ride a tram early in the morning before the lines form. The city looks different when it is still waking up.
Walk downhill more than up when you can. Your legs will thank you later.
Eat lunch near the water rather than in the busiest squares. The food is often better and the pace slower.
Bring shoes with decent grip. Cobblestones and slopes do not forgive smooth soles.
Spend one late afternoon just sitting at a miradouro with nothing planned. The light does the rest of the work.